16-Pack T8 LED Tube Lights 4 Foot 20W G13 Base Dual-Ended Powered Clear Cover

(68 customer reviews)

Original price was: $109.00.Current price is: $89.00.

delivery: May 31, 2024 - Jun 3, 2024
SKU: TUBE-DE4FT-TC-16 Categories: ,

Product Description

16-Pack T8 LED Tube Lights 4 Foot 20W (40W Equivalent) ,G13 Dual-Ended Powered Clear Cover, ETL Listed, 4000K/5000K/6000K

  • √ENERGY SAVING – Save up to 50% on your electricity bill when replacing fluorescent tubes by LUMINOSUM 4ft LED tube lights.
  • √BRIGHT, HIGH ILLUMINATION – Illuminate your space with 2000+ lumens! No annoying flicker and distracting buzz. Energy efficient and environmental friendly.
  • √SAFE and LONG LASING – With ETL certified, LUMINOSUM LED tubes are safe to use and have a long lifetime of 50,000+ hours.
  • √EASY BALLAST BYPASS INSTALLATION – LUMINOSUM 4ft LED tubes are compatible with T8, T10, T12 fluorescent fixtures, just requiring a simple ballast bypass (direct wire) installation.
  • √BUY IN BULK, GET MORE DISCOUNT – LUMINOSUM has stable supply for LED tube lights. It ?s ideal supplier for business customers.

LUMINOSUM 4 Foot T8 LED Tube Lights Clear Cover 10-Pack

Are you still using fluorescent bulbs? Forget everything you know about those old bulbs. They only consume your energy and yet give you poor light. Do you know that the flicker of the high frequency of fluorescent bulbs can cause migraines, eye strains, and headache? Move up to the future with LUMINOSUM LED bulbs.


  • Power: 20W
  • Tube Type: T8
  • Length: 4 feet (1.2m)
  • LED Chip: SMD2835
  • LED qty: 96
  • Lumens: 2000lm
  • Voltage: AC85-265V
  • Power Drive: Constant Current
  • Rendering Index: >80
  • Material: Aluminum+PC
  • Certification: CE,RoHS,,ETL


16 x LED tube lights

How it work? Click here for installation video!

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68 reviews for 16-Pack T8 LED Tube Lights 4 Foot 20W G13 Base Dual-Ended Powered Clear Cover

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  1. Amazon Customer

    I received the lights in a normal amount of time and installed them by bypassing the ballasts in my five florescent light fixtures, and all ten of them worked perfectly! I wired them by using the 120 volt black wire on one end of the fixture and white on the other. All I did was cut all of the ballast wires from the ballast that went to one end of the fixture and twisted them together and wire nutted them to either the black or the white 120 volt wires it doesn’t matter which, and did the same thing with all of the wires that went from the ballast to the other end of the light, this way none of the wires on either end of the light fixture had to be removed and could not cause a short from being cut and bare. I cut all of the wires close to the ballast and left the ballast in place. The lights are brighter than the 35 watt florescent lights they replaced and work great in the cold which is where they are (in my garage) in north west Minnesota. I hope the wiring detail helps you because I was unsure myself before I did my first fixture and then tried it with power, I did the remaining four the same way. I have had them installed now for about 1.5 months and they work perfectly. The price of the lights here on amazon is great and the lights save me almost 50% over the florescent lights they replaced and no more ballasts to worry about. There is simply no down side to buying these lights!! Thanks for reading Steven Klipping

  2. AKing

    These bulbs use non-shunted end-caps only and are to be direct wired, bypassing the fluorescent light ballast which can be removed. I am another pandemic LED light in home converter needing something to do. I received ten four foot bulbs and went to work removing ballasts and shuffling best end caps to voltage in side. I seemed to be lucky as all ten bulbs flashed on even in units that have not worked in a few years. Most ballast pulled were the old tar filled ones from back in the day which meant all my-caps were non-shunted, lucky me.The only mistake I seemed to have made was in counting the amount of bulbs needed as two units counted as two bulb unit were in fact four bulb unit, and I missed one entire two bulb unit in laundry room leaving me six bulbs short. No matter as they are now all converted and ready for the new order soon to be on the way. Lighting seemed comparable to the old bulbs back when they were new. A quick cleaning of all plastic light diffusers, removing dead bugs, some yellowing and am now ready to see how long they last in real world use. Going to leave a couple wiring pic¡¯s for non-shunted end-caps.As these are the first LED bulbs I have ever used I am not sure what is in store but so far I am real pleased to how well they work and expected light output. Will update if disaster befalls me in an untimely fashion.

  3. Hugo S.

    We have 5 fluorescent fixtures in our garage, and have more than half the time had the situation where a bulb or ballast needs replacing, so we’ve not often had all fixtures light up fully when we’ve turned the switch on. Not anymore! We LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE these! They turn on, are bright, and I’ll never need to bother with bulbs or ballasts again!I decided to go the route of removing all the ballasts to eliminate that point of failure, and adding labels “LED Bulbs Only”. Possibly with built in fixtures the only option is to work overhead with them. Fortunately ours are free hanging so I was able to retrofit them on the bench. Much easier and I was able to plug them in to test before hanging again from the ceiling! They are 5000k (daylight) rated bulbs, and they are brighter than standard 38 watt florescent bulbs. If you are looking for a similar brightness to regular florescent bulbs, you may want to purchase 4000k, or possibly the 3000k (warm white). In the garage though, we wanted bright, and they certainly are!.The only detail I was a little unclear of from the connection diagram is that the connection at each end of the bulb needs to be to both pins and not only one. A very minor detail, but being that they would be connecting to the full outlet voltage, I wanted to be as confident as I could before energizing. Still very appreciative the diagram is included on the product page!Turning on the lights now and having them light up bright and light up every time is SOOOOO worth the few hours it took to complete them all! You won’t be disappointed if you make the change.

  4. Steven Hageman

    Perfect way to finally ditch those unreliable Florescent Shop Lights – The Fluorescent bulbs and ballasts are just so unreliable now that this is the only way to go. Easy to do – just cut out the ballast (you can leave its dead body in place) use the existing wire nuts to wire up the hot side of the LED to Line and Neutral – Et Viola! Instant LED Stoplights!!! Took me about 10 minutes per fixture to complete (As my lights are all 10 feet up in my shop and I had to move a ladder around).These are also brighter than 2ea , 40W Cool White Florescent bulbs that they replaced and are about the same color temperature as the Cool Whites that I was running.Use a Felt Pen to make the ‘Hot End’ on the fixture so that if someone does someday have to replace the lights they will know which side is the ‘Hot End’ (Hot meaning the live side to the Line and Neutral wires, the other side does not connect electrically, it just holds the lamp in place). Also mark “LED / No Ballast” on the outside of the fixture to help the next guy out.I can’t say how long they will last, but it’s 2020 and it isn’t rocket science to make a LED lamp now so that should be good – they run very cool so heat won’t be an issue. (if not I’ll be back to update).

  5. Oliver Y

    So first off, these lights do require requiring of the lights. So if you’re not handy or do not know anything about electricity then please do not buy them.If you are handy, then you can easily wire them with 2 wire nuts, some electrical tape, wire splicer and wire cutters.So my lights that I currently have are the non-shunted. This will make wiring easier, basically it allows for separate wires can go to each side of the spades.If you don’t know what it is, it’s something you can lookup.So my lights are just the plug in type to a regular 120v receptacle but it will be the same instructions. The power will need to go to one side of the bulb, hot (black) and a nuetrual (white). Basically cut all the wiring going to one side. If you want just cut all of the wires and then connect the incoming hot to one side of the tombstone and connect the white to the other side of the tombestone. Doesn’t matter if you connect white or black to either side. Just don’t connect white or black to both sides.I did 5 lights in about 40mins. Once you do one then you can do a light in 5-10 minutes. Please dispose of your lights properly and please do not perform rewiring if your not comfortable with electric.These lights make a huge difference! About 2-3x the light output of the original for a fraction of the wattage, 130w total for my entire garage and it was close to 400w with the old ones. My fixtures were designed for T12 but these T8 fit just fine.

  6. mark

    These work really well and are brighter than the initial pair that I got at a big store that rhymes with LostDough. For some reason, one of the 5 light fixtures that I was replacing bulbs in would only blink the lights on and off until I rewired to bypass the ballast. I moved the bulbs to another fixture to be sure it wasn’t the bulbs (they were fine in another fixture with a ballast). Took me a couple of tries to figure out the right wiring configuration – Google/YouTube is your friend as a lot depends on how your fixtures are wired but eventually I found an example of one that looked just like mine – short version: I needed to use ALL wires from both sides to make mine work. I’ll probably rewire/remove all my ballasts later this month since they just use electricity needlessly and some hum a bit, but presently I have these 10 bulbs in 4 lights with and 1 without a ballast. There’s another 10 pack in my cart right now to fill out the rest of our fluorescent shop-type fixtures (9 total in a 3-car garage) – my hope is to never have to change a bulb out there again!+++Update a couple of weeks later: still happy with this product. Got the other 10-pack and all 9 garage fixtures are now ballast free with instant bright white LED light! Not sure why one of the fixtures on each side of the garage still buzzes a little (I thought no ballast=no buzz). Also, be careful mixing and matching LED replacement bulbs – turns out the ones I bought from membership store require a ballast or they go off to LED light bulb heaven when you put them in and turn on the power (oops!) Much prefer these which can be used with or without the ballast ;-).

  7. Dennis Richardson

    These where really easy to install, they are power from one end only and no ballast need

  8. W. P. Watson

    Replacement of fluorescent bulbs with LEDs is a total upgrade but you need to understand a bit about the technology and the options available if you have a number of different fixtures to upgrade. I do believe the ballast bypass approach is best but it¡¯s not the only one.My strategy has been to replace the (8) 25 year old fixtures in my shop with these as they burnout. Installation of these ballast bypass bulbs requires a simple rewiring of the fixture and disposal of the ballast. Should last ¡®forever¡¯ and eliminate leaky and nasty failed ballasts. But the rewiring is required.Elsewhere I have similar units that allow you to simply replace the existing bulbs without rewiring. Simple when the ballast fails you are back where you started. Easy but a shorter term fix.Only complaint is the packaging of the 8¡¯ tubes in relatively flimsy packaging. One was physically damaged in transit. I have some other 8¡¯ tubes that came in much sturdier packaging.

  9. Kevin Lowder

    worked like they should and bright

  10. W.C.Fields

    I got these bulbs about 10 months ago and rewired my garage lights that always gave me trouble with high humidity days and the ballasts going out. Check out a U-tube video on how to rewire. Easier than I thought. In ten months of use, all bulbs still work. I have bought other LED bulbs for table lamps and some don’t last as long as old incandescent bulbs. Do yourself a favor and cut the old ballasts out, rewire, and save money on electricity. If you put in plug and play LED bulbs, the ballasts are still drawing current and if the go out, the LED will also not work.

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